**WERSJA PO POLSKU**
Sony XDR-S10HDiP modification manual.
This modification is based on a project by Konrad Kosmatka from Płock. He started the topic of modifying the Sony XDR-F1HD tuner. Following this project, I adapted the XDR-S10HDiP tuner to work with the same modification
In this tuner, the modification is made as in F1HD in the extended version, the tuner works only from the computer. We will not start the tuner with Seeeduino disconnected.
For modification, we need a Seeeduino v4.2 driver and a few cables. For me, the Seeeduino module is outside, so I used the RS-232 socket to communicate with the module. We also need RCA mounting sockets, because the tuner does not have a line out sound output, and since the tuner does not normally start, the built-in speakers do not work either.
In order for the tuner to run, you need to desolder the display board and connect the Seeeduino cables to pins 2, 6, 9, 10, 11, 12 at connector A looking at the tuner diagram. Solder the display without the pins to which the mod is connected. It is best to bend the above pins so that they do not interfere. The rest should be soldered as before.
Audio from the tuner needs to be output from the preamplifier, I used pins 2 (R), 4 (L), 7 (GND) at connector B.
Due to the fact that the tuner does not start automatically, the factory fan does not start. You have to get him a 5V power supply from another place. You can mount a switch for this, it works for me immediately after connecting to the 230V network.
Power modification. It is not absolutely necessary, but the US uses a frequency of 60 Hz. When connecting the tuner in Europe via a 230 / 110V converter, the tuner works correctly, but the power supply systems heat up more. The tuner is supplied from the original voltage supply: + 12V and + 7V. Using a 12V external power supply, we mount only one step-down converter set to 7V (I mounted it behind one of the speakers, I also mounted a DC socket there), the second voltage is given directly.
Then you just have to put it together. The tuner is in the center of the housing, the converters are on the side behind the loudspeaker, there are plastic bulkheads between the speakers and the tuner part, you need to drill holes to thread the cables, everything is packed tightly in the middle. This is where the most time goes, with cables being routed so that they do not interfere with the closing of the housing after the modification is finished.
In the tuner software, the only thing you need to change is #INIT 0 to #INIT 1, just like in the modification extended in F1HD.
Modification is always associated with the risk of damaging the I2C bus or DSP. Belongs perform each operation with the power disconnected and work with a soldering iron thrust.